The Phoenicia Malta

The place

At the edge of Valletta, a majestic limestone building that has kept its 1930s composure — elegant curves, marble finishes, a classical calm in the public rooms. The 132 rooms run more contemporary: refined furnishings, Acqua di Parma in the bathroom, a Dyson hairdryer waiting in the drawer.

The crown jewel is the Bastion Pool, infinity-edged, its sundeck looking clear across the ancient city. Inside, a light-filled pool, a fitness centre, a sauna, a salt room, a steam room.

Five places to eat and drink, from Contessa's southern Mediterranean table to Beefbar's world-class cuts.