MOGANA

The place

A narrow building near Nijo Castle holds MOGANA — sleek, minimal, and quieter than its five stars suggest. The 23 oversized rooms are each kept to one register: black, white, or wood.

The details do the talking. Shigeta toiletries from Paris, sandals crafted in Osaka by MATOU, no television — though a projector can be borrowed. The Japanese-style bath, cut from black granite, is where the room settles into itself.

Breakfast comes to the door, its ingredients grown around Awajishima, a coastal city known for its rich produce. A bar on the second floor keeps a wide shelf of drinks.